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The bold and the beautiful: the rich brewing culture of Vancouver Island

A 2023 guide to peninsula breweries, cideries, wineries and distilleries and what sets them apart
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Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse, like other cideries, breweries, distilleries, and wineries on the Peninsula, offers a scenic view and stand-out product. (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)

With an ideal climate for the slow maturing of crops and fruit, plus Mount Baker or the ocean often on view, it’s no wonder that breweries, cideries, wineries and distilleries are a thriving industry on Vancouver Island’s Peninsula.

And while there has always been plenty to choose from, there has been growth in the industry in the last few years; there were eight breweries, cideries, wineries and distilleries in 2019 on the Peninsula (Central Saanich, North Saanich, Saanich and Sidney), which increased to 11 in 2023, the Liquor Distribution Branch said.

Each of these companies has found a way to distinguish themselves, playing to the strengths the region offers while drawing on something bold or unique to find a niche customer base. Here is a broad scope of what the breweries, cideries, wineries and distilleries on Vancouver Island peninsula have to offer.

Breweries:

Head brewer and founder of Category 12 Brewing Brewing in Saanichton, Michael Kuzyk, opened his brewery in 2014 after he obtained a doctorate in microbiology and biochemistry and left a career in the science industry. From the logo with a beaker to the taproom’s bright and playful decor that pays homage to science fiction, Michael and his wife/business partner Karen Kuzyk bring creativity to the customer experience. The “beer lab manu” has staples like the Chromatic IPA, Juicy Data Hazy IPA and the new Pathway Pale Ale, plus seasonals that pay homage to their favourite big Belgians and hoppy Northwestern ales. Located in an industrial complex on Keating X Rd., the brewery also has an outdoor patio and events like comedy nights and beer-pairing dinners, plus it’s eight minutes from the Butchart Gardens or about halfway down The Lochside bike trail – a converted railway line that runs from the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal to downtown Victoria. The brewery is driven by Kuzyk’s meticulous attention to recipe optimization, fueled by his science-oriented mind.

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A house-made waffle with hand-crafted vanilla gelato and Deviation sorbet at Category 12 Brewing. (Courtesy Category 12 Brewing)

North in Sidney, Small Gods Brewing, a family-oriented brewery, takes inspiration from the world of literature. Co-owner Sierra Skye Gemma is an award-winning journalist and writer, and together with her partner, Chris Bjerrisgaard, they opened the shop with a theme to fit in with Sidney’s book town culture. The taproom opened Aug. 5, 2022 with a family-friendly atmosphere, offering a selection of inclusive books, artisan sandwiches, a patio, author readings, literary trivia nights and a book club. The brewery takes its name from the book of poetry In Search of Small Gods by Jim Harrison, and the beers are named after books relating to its ingredients or origins – such as Neverending, a German Pilsner named after The Neverending Story.

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Small Gods Brewing (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)

Within the same Sidney block, Beacon Brewing, a friendly and fun non-distribution nano-brewery (brewpub that produces less than 15,000 barrels of beer per year) was the first brewery to open in Sidney in 2021. The atmosphere is relaxed with slushy cocktails on the menu, board games, an arcade racing game, trivia, comedy and Bingo nights.

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Beacon Brewing is a family-owned and operated business run by Alexa, Tristan and Steven. (Courtesy Beacon Brewing)

Run by only one man, Howl Brewing, a nano-brewery located in North Saanich just above the Victoria International Airport, goes bold by focusing on small-batch high-quality craft beer with fresh and unpredictable flavours made from B.C.-grown ingredients. Customers can try beer styles that are obsolete and that showcase traditional to obscure styles and local farms: beers like Saskatoon and Rose Pilsner, or the Fieldberry Dampfbier, an all-barley German steam beer made with berries and lavender.

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Brewer Dan Van Netten, the sole-operator at Howl Brewing in North Saanich, likes to keep the ever-changing menu innovative, often dictated by what is available locally. (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)

READ MORE: Brewing up a barrel of history at Howl Brewing

Cideries:

The peninsula’s cider scene is destination-worthy and considered one of the top Agri-tourism attractions on Vancouver Island. Saanichton’s Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse, which, in addition to its award-winning ciders, has a beautiful view of the Haro Straight, Mount Baker and a ten-acre farm home to over 1,300 apple trees. The cider flights pair beautifully with organic cheese and other light, local fare on their menu.

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Sea Cider Farm Ciderhouse. (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)

Victoria Cider Co., started in 2021 and further north on the opposite coast, focuses on the flavours of English and French cider apples. Their award-winning keeved cider, a traditional French-style cider that has notes of butterscotch, is a particularly rare style to find due to its time-consuming and risky production process. The business’ branding is tasteful, and incorporated into their light, bright and farm-rustic tasting room. Outside, the open lawn has picnic tables, willow trees and games.

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From left: Maureen, Emily, Jamie, Daniel and Wayne Ralph. The Ralph family, including daughter Kirstie (not pictured), has worked together to create Victoria Cider Co. (Nicole Crescenzi)

READ MORE: Victoria Cider Co. took a risk making keeved cider, but the results set them apart

Wineries:

If a glass of wine is what you are after, look no further than Deep Cove Winery in North Saanich, nestled between the Horth Hill Regional Park and Deep Cove beach. Elyse and Tasem Ramadan built the business on a philosophy of romance, planting three acres of grapes over 22 years ago as an investment for their future family; Elyse’s parents and sister continue to keep the winery operational as the couple announced their departure to new ventures this year. The winery is also a venue, offering occasional live music, large outdoor spaces and a lounge menu offering pizza, charcuterie, and elegant starters with seating both inside and outside. Their Schonburger, a full-bodied rosé, is popular and their white wine Queen with notes of pear and apple.

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Diana Sayad, who helps run Deep Cove Winery. (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)

Invinity Sparkling Wine House sells premium, traditionally-made sparkling wines. They don’t have a tasting room but have product available for pickup or free delivery in the Greater Victoria area while usually offering tastings at the North Saanich Farmers Market on Saturdays.

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Invinity sparkling wine. (Courtesy Invinity Sparkling Wine House)

Roost Farm Winery, Bakery, and Bistro has both a Tasting Room Bar and a Vineyard Bistro with inside and fireside patio seating overlooking the farm, a vineyard and koi fish pond. The atmosphere is country-style with an extensive brunch menu and educational farm tours that explore their wheat and milling operation, bee program, chicken bus and pumpkin carriage.

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Roost Farm’s wild blackberry dessert wine. (Courtesy The Roost Farm Bakery & Vineyard Bistro)

Distilleries:

In addition to wines, DEVINE Distillery also produces spirits made from local grapes, grain, fruit and honey. Hailed as a “hidden gem on the Saanich Peninsula” by a TripAdvisor reviewer, the view is spectacular of Mount Baker and the Gulf Island. The tasting room was discontinued in 2020, due to being on a residential property and consistently over capacity, but people are welcome to come learn about their products and purchase directly from the source. Items to try include the multi-award-winning Ancient Grains ‘Alt Whisky’ (Gold & Category Winner at the 2023 World Whisky Awards), the Glen Saanich Single Malt Whisky (Canadian Artisan Spirits Competition 2023 – Gold with Distinction & Merit in Terroir), and the Black Bear Spiced Honey Rum (Canadian Artisan Spirits Competition 2023 – Best in Class - Alternative Rum, Gold with Distinction & Merit in Terroir).

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The product labels of Devine Distillery are designed by artist Margaret Hanson and make the brand stand out. (Courtesy Devine Distillery)

Victoria Distillers, makers of the popular Indigo Gin, moved to a waterfront location in Sidney in 2016 as business expanded with the accumulation of prestigious awards. Known for their Left Coast Hemp Vodka, Victoria Gin, Craigdarroch Whiskey and Twisted and Bitter cocktail bitters, the business has an open retail space/tasting room beside the idyllic Port Sidney Marina.

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Products from Victoria Distillers. (Courtesy Victoria Distillers)

READ MORE: Two Greater Victoria distilleries honoured with Canadian Whisky Awards

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Head distiller Kevin Titcomb at Devine Distillery. (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)




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